My Exploratory trip to Finnish Lapland- Winter Wonderland !
February 2018 brought with it some unexpected travel plans. I think this was the quickest trip by far from Thought to Planning and actually heading there that I have experienced in a very long time. I have been wanting to do some true white winter photography for a while now and being situated in India and Singapore you can see how that can be a challenge.
February 2018 brought with it some unexpected travel plans. I think this was the quickest trip by far from thought to planning and actually heading there that I have experienced in a very long time. I have been wanting to do some true white winter photography for a while now and being situated in India and Singapore you can see how that can be a challenge.
But this year all that changed as a chain of events resulted in my ending up in Finnish Lapland near the Arctic Circle. So what follows is a Photo Essay/Travel Tip/Photography Learnings from that trip.
Why Lapland?
Having shot primarily during spring and fall for the past several years I was nagged by a desire capture photographs of a proper white winter.
I had been putting off winter photography for all the usual reasons. Having lived most of my life in the hot tropical conditions of South India and also having experienced the biting cold winters of North Eastern US for a few years I have generally been comfortable planning my Landscape and Travel shoots during the shoulder seasons of Spring and Fall.
And I have hundreds of images from those shoots. But what was starkly missing from my portfolio was winter photos.
Getting There
From Singapore
Finnair has direct connections from Singapore to Helsinki. From Helsinki fly to Rovaniemi which is the main gateway to Finnish Lapland.
From India
Finnair flies from Mumbai and New Delhi to Helsinki from where you can connect to Rovaniemi.
Other Notable Airports in Lapland are Ivalo and Kittila but I strongly suggest heading to Ravaniemi first getting your winter bearings there in the comfort of a relatively larger town with load of facilities and Tour Operators before heading in to the more remote areas.
When to Go to Experience Winter in Lapland
December to March is winter period at Lapland.
Typical Temperatures in winter
December: -20 to -10 degrees Celsius
January: -30 to -15 degrees Celsius
February: -20 to -15 degrees Celsius
March: -15 to -5 degrees Celsius
Clothing
At these low temperatures its very important to stay warm . Wear Layers and Choose good quality lightweight synthetic fibres or wool. Stay away from cotton while choosing clothing for this trip.
During my trip the coldest temperature was -29C and on average it was in the -15C range. I wore 3 layers regularly starting with thermals and then insulated pants and woollen sweaters or fleece and the final layer being a heavy insulated jacket and snow pants.
For footwear I wore sock liners and thick wooden socks and my mid height hiking boots which did a decent job of keeping me warm. And to protect my head and face I had a balaclava over which a I wore thick woolen Beanie and UV goggles to protect my face.
I used photography gloves with openable tips for index finger and thumbs on both hands to keep me warm but also make it easier to operate the camera controls.
My Favourite Outdoor Wear Brands
For Clothing : White Sierra, Patagonia, Arcteryx, Marmot, Mammut
Winter Gear
2. Snow Pants
3. Base Layers
What was in my camera Bags?
As photographers we are ofter conflicted with what to take and what to leave behind just in case and this time was no different. I think I carried a little more than I should have but here is the list of equipment I carried for the trip. I took with me the Canon 5D IV and Canon 5DS-R Camera bodies. These are now available at a discount now and are still very good options. But technology has marched on and there are several great high resolution cameras with better dynamic range available now.
Suggested Cameras Updated for 2021
From Canon
Canon EOS R6 Full-Frame Mirrorless Camera with 4K Video
Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8L is USM Lens
Canon RF 24-105 mm F/4 l is USM Lens
From L Mount Alliance
Panasonic Lumix S DC-S1M, Full Frame Camera with 24-105 Lens kit
Leica SL2 47MP Mirrorless Full-Frame Camera (Body Only)
Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-90mm f/2.8-4 ASPH. Lens
From Fujifilm Medium Format
Fujifilm GFX 100S Body - Black
Fujinon GF32-64mmF4 R LM WR Lens
From Sony
Sony - FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM Wide-Angle Zoom Lens
Sigma 592965 28-70mm F2.8 DG DN for E mount
In hindsight I think the 55mm Otus and the 100mm Macro were overkill and weren't used all that much. The Lens that I enjoyed shooting the most with were the Sigma 20mm f1.4 and the Canon 70-200 f2.8 followed by the Canon wide angle zoom.
Accessories
Mindshift Gear- Backlight 26L Backpack , Think Tank Airport Stroller Bag
Gitzo Mountainer Tripod and Arca Swiss Z1 ball head
Rugged Torchlight
San Disk Extreme and Lexar CF Cards and SD cards
Lacie Rugged External Hard Drive and San Disk SSD Drives for backing up images
Macbook Pro and iPad Pro which were a bit redundant next trip I wil carry just one of these.
(I Lost my B1 Ball head while using the ski lift to to the top of kaunispa and now need to replace that. Hazards of travel photography !)
My Itinerary
My Journey started in Singapore from where I flew on British Airways to Helsinki Via Heathrow . From Helsinki I took a connecting flight to Rovaniemi the gateway town to Finnish Lapland . Rovaniemi has two unique qualities. 1 the Arctic Circle actually runs through it. 2 It is home to Santa’s Village and Santa’s post office.
After landing at Rovaniemi Airport and collecting my baggage I quickly donned enough protective clothing to withstand the short walk from the terminal door to the free bus into the city. I was dropped off at the entrance to my hotel the Cumulus Hotel Pohjanhovi which I had booked through Booking.com and was soon checked in and up in my room with was spacious and warm.
Rovaniemi the gateway to Lapland
Rovaniemi is a nice town for starting your journey into Lapland. If you have never experienced a Nordic winter before its good to get acclimatised here and get your winter bearings. Rovaniemi has a number of good tour and safari operators who can help you with a number of Lapland activities such as trips to Reindeer Sleigh rides and farm visits, husky tours, snowmobiling, snowshoeing and even night safaris to watch the northern lights.
If you are traveling with family and young children a trip to the Santa Claus Village and and Santas post office would be a good place to start.
I was looking forward to spend time photographing the nature winter walks in and around the city.
Having slept well during my long haul flight after a brief rest at the hotel I was into my winter clothing and out with my camera doing a recon of the area around the hotel which was located on the banks of the Kemijoki River. The River was mostly frozen over and a blanket of snow had covered the frozen river. I could spot people river fishing through holes in the ice and I also watched a group of snow mobiles returning from a safari which was quite fascinating to watch as they drove across the frozen river led by an expert .
It was golden hour as I was exploring the river bank and was able to capture a couple of nice images.
I started to feel cold as the sun dipped below the horizon and decided to head back to the hotel and get myself a warm drink and some dinner before retiring for the night. I ensure I had all my batteries charges and memory cards loaded and gear ready for my first full day of shooting at the Arctic Circle.
Day 1-Day 4 Rovaniemi
Where to Stay at Rovaniemi
Rovaniemi Offers a number of hotels and Apartments to stay at but winter is a very busy time specially during Christmas and accommodations can get fully booked a month or more in advance so book early.
I stayed at the Cumulus Hotel Pohjanhovi due to its location close to the river and also the rating and reviews from users. it turned out to be a good choice. The rooms were of a reasonable size and nice and warm which was a welcome relief after walking around in the cold for 5-6 hours a day.
But there area number of cottages and bed and breakfasts also available but can have little or no services and located remotely which will then require your to rent a car.
I managed without renting a car the entire trip as I was hesitant to drive in the icy winter conditions there. But I must mention the roads were all well maintained and clear and traffic was moving along well on the highways.
A few hotels which I found interesting during my search
Hotels at Rovaniemi with good reviews
Mid Range
Luxury
Exploring the Bridges Walk
The 2 Bridges Walk is a picturesque walk along the banks of the Kemijoki River with crossings over the two bridges namely the Jätkänkynttilä, or Lumberjack Candle Bridge and the Old Railway Bridge.
You can also do the 4 Bridges walk is a longer loop covering all 4 bridges which totally about 8 km long. But I decided to just stick to the shorter walk as it was just oo cold to stay out for so long.
The walk offers great views of the Lumberjack candle bridge and frozen kemijoki and ounasjoki rivers.
You can spot people walking across the frozen river and also there area few outdoor saunas along the banks where you can take a dip in the icy waters and then get into a hot water tub.
The light keeps changing continually from sunrise to sunset and you are presented with so many different options of photos.
I specially liked exploring various compositions of the line of frost covered trees along the banks. I also enjoyed capturing small details and contrasts of plants and objects sticking out from the otherwise pure white snow.
Image Gallery from Ounasvaara Winter Trail and Ranua Wildlife Park, Lapland, Finland.
Day 5 - Day 9 Saariselka
Where to Stay at Saariselka
I stayed at the Lapland Hotels Reikonlinna in Saariselka Village. Centrally located short walk to ski slopes and winter walking trails and has a bus stop just in front of the property.
Other hotels in Saariselka that looked interesting are
Holiday Club Saariselka
Aparthotel Kuukkeli Aurora
Kakslauttenen Igloo Village deserves special mention.its a popular and expensive resort but is unique.
Day 3 - Ranua Wildlife Park
This is a great way to view Arctic Animals up close.Its a nice day trip from Rovaniemei and sure to be a hit with the kids while you practice your long lens shooting technique here. Birds of Prey, Polar Bears, Wolves, Wolverines, Red Fox, Reindeer and Musk Ox can all be seen here.
Day 4(Travel Day) Ravaniemi to Saariselka by Bus
Day 5 Exploring Saariselka Village and Kaunispaa
One can easily spend a day walking around Saariselka Village enjoying the crisp winter air and stop for a quick lunch and to warm up at the Cafe at the Supermarket. I recommend the PizzaS there. Visit Kaunispaa in the afternoon via the ski lift and take in the play of colours during golden hour all the way up to blue hour. The Ski lift only takes you up so you will have to find your own way down and back to the village either via the ski bus or call for a taxi from the cafe.
Day 6 Kiilopaa Fell Winter Walking Trail
This is a lovely winter activity destination which also offer some rustic accommodations for trekkers.This is also one of the starting points for the larger Urho Kekkonen Nature Park which offers multi day hikes.
The extensive wilderness areas of Urho Kekkonen National Park can be explored on skis in winter and on foot in other times. Hiking outside marked trails requires wilderness and orienteering skills, and in winter the thick snow adds an additional layer of difficulty. A map and compass are necessary, since GPS devices are not always reliable in the remote wilderness. Nights can be spent at any of the many wilderness and reservation huts in the park, which are stocked with firewood. The huts are located about a day's journey apart from each other.
Day 7 Aurorapolku Winter Walking Trail
The Aurorapolku trail is a short 2.1 km trail ideal that ls also the one of the starting points for the Urho Kekkonen Nature park mentioned above.
This takes us you to the Aurora Viewing Platform and Day Hut with a nice warm fire and restroom facilities.
Day 8 Exploring Saariselka
On the last full day at Saariselka I decided to just enjoy walking around the village again with camera in hand. Walked a different route into snow covered cabins and houses but kept to the main road so as not to trespass on the locals residences.
Day 9 Travel Day
Having had my fill of sub zero temperatures and with memory cards full of images it was time to head back to warmer climates.
My journey from -15C to +30 C started with a bus ride from Saariselka to Ivalo airport.
After a short flight to Helsinki I boarded my Finnair flight from Helsinki to New Delhi where the temperature was a moderate 18C.
Next I boarded a flight on good old Air India to Chennai which gave me a warm welcome at 30C.
Home Sweet Home?
And here I am writing this blog as I edit my images from my trip to winter wonderland.
working on my exhibit images now. Please sign up for my newsletter or watch my Facebook page to keep updated about the dates for the Exhibit . If you like this travel adventure please do share it with your friends.Hope it was useful and helps you plan your next winter adventure. Cheers!
Here area few useful links for planning your trip to Lapland
http://www.nationalparks.fi/en/urhokekkonennp/activities
Here are quick links to Amazon.in for gear that I either used for this trip or are on my own Wishlist based on my experience in the cold. Use this to browse and pick gear for your trip.
Cruising through Scandinavia - 2 weeks through Norway, Denmark and Sweden
Scandinavia had been on my bucket list for a couple of years. And finally when I got a chance to travel there I decided to visit Copenhagen, Bergen and Stockholm with a short cruise through the fjords thrown in. This was to be a preview for a longer trip to Scandinavia at a later time. I decided to start with Copenhagen.
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
Scandinavia had been on my bucket list for a couple of years. And finally when I got a chance to travel there I decided to visit Copenhagen, Bergen and Stockholm with a short cruise through the fjords thrown in. This was to be a preview for a longer trip to Scandinavia at a later time. I decided to start with Copenhagen.
Getting there
Copenhagen Airport Is the busiest airport in Scandinavia handling around 60,000 travellers every day.
The Major Airlines with connectivity to Copenhagen Airport are Singapore Airlines, British Airways, Lufthansa, Emirates, SAS, Finnair, Air India, Qatar Air, Cathay Pacific , Air China etc
The best airline within Scandinavia itself is SAS. So my suggestion is to fly to one of the main European centres like London , Amsterdam or Frankfurt and fly SAS to Copenhagen and other destinations within Scandinavia.
Where to Stay at Copenhagen
NYHAVN and INDRE BY are the main Tourist Hubs for Copenhagen . So I decided to stay at Nyhaven due to the convenience of the location. It is close the the Palace, Opera, Nyhaven Waterfront dining options. Also a lot of the tour operators have pickup points there so it is easy to get onto different tours and daytrips.
INDRE BY is the old City which has beginnings in the 12th century. You will find the famous museums and churches here. It is also close to the Tivoli Gardens. But there are other options for stay too such as INDRE NØRREBRO, VESTERBRO, SLOTSHOLMEN, CHRISTIANSHAVN it depends upon your preference and which area you will be spending more time at.
Nyhaven Options (New Harbour)
INDRE BY Options (old city)
Best Western Plus Hotel City Copenhagen
Budget
Getting Around Copenhagen
Walking and cycling are real options for exploring Copenhagen. The public transport system in Copenhagen is well developed. For more information on tickets and pricing for the buses and water taxis check out the official tourism site of Copenhagen. You can also hail an Uber or call in a taxi if you so please. There are sightseeing buses which do loops around the city with stops at places of interest so that is a great way to explore the city if time is short.
Places to Visit and things to do in Copenhagen
Copenhagen has something for everyone. From waterfront cafes to Grand Palaces , Museums and Art Galleries. There are too many to list in this blog but here are are few highlights
Visit Rosenborg Castle and Explore the palace grounds and King’s gardens.
Take in the Grandeur of Danish Aristocracy at Amalienborg Palace
Revel in the energy of Nyhavn
Become a kid again at Tivoli Gardens one of the oldest theme parks in the world. Walt Disney himself found inspiration for the Disney World here.
Tivoli, the 170-year-old amusement gardens in central Copenhagen, used to be only a summer pass-time, but since 1994 it is open all year round. With thousands of lights adorning the historic buildings and gardens, and with charmingly themed villages and shops full of tasty treats and dazzling decorations, Tivoli oozes Christmas. Add to that the wonderful restaurants and the many thrilling rides, and you are set for a day’s adventure.
The Little Mermaid and Geflon Fountain
Absorb the Art of Danish and International Masters at SMK - The National Gallery of Denmark
Feel the wind against your face during a Canal and Harbour Cruise
Go Back in time at the Christiansborg Palace.
Frederiksborg Castle is situated in Hillerød, north of Copenhagen. This impressive Renaissance castle was built in the first decades of the 17th century by the Danish King Christian IV.
Frederiksborg Castle has housed The Museum of National History since 1878, when it was established by brewer J.C. Jacobsen, the founder of Carlsberg. The beautiful decorated rooms with portraits, history paintings, furniture, and decorative art invite visitors on a journey through Danish history and culture from the late Middle Ages to the present. The historical interiors and the splendorous rooms give a sensuous impression of changing styles and epochs. The collection of portraits is the largest and most significant in Denmark, with new works continually added to the collection.
Be moved at the The Royal Danish Opera.
Shop for souvenirs and gifts at the High Street shops.
Stroll around Copenhagen Harbour and enjoy the fresh air as you take in the sweeping views of the sea.
All in all I had a great weekend in Copenhagen and before I knew it it was time to continue on to the second leg of my journey which was to fly from Copenhagen to Bergen,Norway.
BERGEN, NORWAY
Bergen in my opinion is the most beautiful city in Norway possibly even Scandinavia. I decided to start my journey through Norway here as it is the gateway to the fjords and also for its fantastic views.
Getting there
By Air
There are direct flights to Bergen from Copenhagen, Stockholm, New York, Helsinki, Amsterdam , London and many more centers of Europe.
Bergen Airport Flesland is located 18 kilometers south of Bergen. The airport buses depart every 15 - 20 minutes and takes about 30 minutes to the Bergen city center.
By Bus
Kystbussen has services from Stavanger, Haugesund or Stord (Leirvik) to Bergen. Buses also run between Oslo and Bergen. And, like travelling by car, you get to see a lot of Norwegian scenery en route.The NOR-WAY express bus company's Haukeliekspressen gets you from Oslo to Bergen.
By Cruise or Ferry
Hurtigruten is the main Cruise company that has sailings to Bergen right from Copenhagen or Oslo.
You can also catch one of the many high speed ferries from the ports along the Norwegian Coast. The approach to Bergen from the sea through fjords past charming fishing coastal villages is something special.
Driving there
One can drive to Bergen from Stavanger or from Oslo. The drive from Oslo to Bergen taken between 7 to 8.5 hours depending upon the route. Driving gives you more freedom to make the journey at your own pace and enjoy the scenery en-route.
Where to Stay at Bergen
I stayed at the Scandic Ornen Hotel which is a modern hotel located a 10 minute walk from City Center and a 15 minute walk from the harbour. But I noticed there were a lot of hotels closer to the city center and the Radisson Blu specially was very well located near Bryggen Harbour. It would probably be my choice if I were to go there again.
Other hotels which have good user ratings are
Luxury
Budget
Dining at Bergen
Bergen being a coastal town has some of the best sea food restaurants. The Bryggen Harbour area is filled with restaurants, cafes and pubs. You can get continental food as well as traditional norwegian food here. There is a TGIF near the city centre which became my favourite spot to have familiar comfort food as i’m not much of a seafood person. There are also tiny hole in the wall type of places for a quick bite. There are a number of Restaurants for Indian and Asian food as well so there is something for all palates.
Bergen Photo Ops
Bryggen Harbour and Waterfront
Bryggen is one of Bergen's and Norway's main attractions. Bryggen was built after the great fire in 1702 and is included on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
The very first buildings in Bergen were situated at Bryggen, which has been a vibrant and important area of the city for many centuries.
Bryggen has been ravaged by many fires, the great fire of 1702 in particular. It reduced the whole of the city to ashes. The area was rebuilt on the foundations that had been there since the 12th century, which means that Bryggen is basically unchanged despite the passing centuries.
Bryggen is now part of our common heritage and has a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, and the city of Bergen is a designated World Heritage City. The world heritage site consists of the old Hanseatic wharf and buildings, and one of the best known urban areas from the Middle Ages in all of Norway.
In 1360, the German Hanseatic League set up one of its import and export offices at Bryggen, dominating trade for almost 400 years. To stroll through the narrow alleyways and overhanging galleries is to step back into the mists of time and a bygone era.
Bryggen is very much a living part of the cultural heritage that is still in active use in this historical area of the city. Today, there are several attractions in the area, from the Fish Market to Bergenhus Fortress and there are many cafés, restaurants and shops to choose from. Many of the shops sell traditional and unique crafts.
Explore by walking through the lanes of Bergen
Take the funicular up to the Mt Floyen View Point for fantastic views of Bergen and the fjords.
The Funicular station is located right near Bergen Harbour so is a short walk from most places in city centre.
Make sure you keep track of time while the top of the hill because the trains stop at around 10pm so if you miss the last train it is a long walk back down the hill.
Sunset in summer is quite late around 9 pm and it can be quite sunny up at the view point even if you get up there by 6 pm. But its worth the wait and you can ensure you have a good spot reserved to view the Sun set over the fjords.
View from Mt Ulriken
Take the Cable car up to the top of Mt Ulriken for the best views of Bergen and the Fjords.
People Watching at Bergen Center
After 3 days of a fairy tale stay at Bergen and with a promise to return for a longer stay that I set off onto the next leg of my journey which was the cruise on Hurtigruten from Bergen to Alesund and Trondheim.
Hurtigruten Cruise
BERGEN-ALESUND-TRONDHEIM
Hurtigruten has sailings from Bergen to KIrkenes and back via Alesund and Trondheim (Norwegian Discovery Voyage)which is a 11 day voyage. I had only a couple of days and nights to spare for the cruise so decided to sail just the Bergen -Alesund-Hardangerfjord-Trondheim section which was 2 nights and 1.5 days.
You can see more details on the Hurtegruten website.
To explore the fjords and the surrounding countryside further take a day trip or two during the cruise. They are a little pricey but the arrangements are excellent and leaves you free to just take in the scenery.
At Trondheim I parted with the Cruise and rested for a night before flying on to Stockholm.
Stockholm
Where to Stay at Stockholm
Luxury
Radisson Blu Waterfront Hotel, Stockholm
Radisson Blu Royal Viking Hotel, Stockholm
Budget
Getting around Stockholm
By Subway
Stockholm's subway is probably the quickest way to get around town.
A single ticket is valid for 75 minutes and you can also buy passes for 24, hours, 72 hours and 30 days. The tickets can be purchased at ticket terminals, SL Centers, newsagent kiosks, SMS or the SL app.
It's not possible to pay cash for tickets on board buses in Stockholm. Failure to show on demand a valid ticket during a control will result in a penalty fee of 1500 SEK.
The same tickets and passes can also be used to travel by bus, tram, commuter trains and the ferries from Nybroviken and Djurgården.
By Boat
Travelling by local ferries is a fantastic way to experience a city built on islands. Ferries are used by both commuters and tourists wanting to take a better look around.
Cycling
There are several rental options; City Bikes simply lets you borrow a bike from any of their 140 public-sites via a three-day or season pass, Bike Sweden is both a bike rental service and organizer of bike tours; Rent-a-bike offers both bike rentals both for several days or by the hour.
By Taxi
You can easily get hold of a taxi by calling a taxi company, hailing one on the street or by taking a one from a rank. There is a manned taxi center at Central Station that can help you with finding the right service, e.g. if you need child seats in the vehicle.
Photo Ops in Stockholm
Stockholm Waterfront
Gamla Stan
Gamla Stan, the Old Town, is one of the largest and best preserved medieval city centers in Europe, and one of the foremost attractions in Stockholm. This is where Stockholm was founded in 1252.
All of Gamla Stan and the adjacent island of Riddarholmen are like a living pedestrian-friendly museum full of sights, attractions, restaurants, cafés, bars, and places to shop. Gamla Stan is also popular with aficionados of handicrafts, curious, and souvenirs.
The Stockholm Underground Art
Stockholm’s subway system is truly one of a kind. One hundred stations, each with unique art on its platform, walls or waiting hall. Since 1957 artists have played a key role when new stations have been built.
And over time the metro’s older stations – planned and built without any art – have been spruced up with beautiful statues, murals, and installations.
So spending a day in Stockholm’s metro is basically like visiting the world’s longest art exhibition.
Canal Boat Cruises
Fotografiska, Stockholm
Archipelago
My Gear for this trip
Canon 5D Mark 3 DSLR
Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L IS Lens
Canon 2x Teleconverter
Canon 17-40mm f4 L lens
Canon G12 Compact Camera
Gitzo Tripod
Arca Swiss C1 tripod head